Sea buckthorn guide: omega-7, dense carotenoids, and the most intensely colored skincare oil

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) produces the most intensely colored skincare oil in common use — a deep orange oil so rich in carotenoids that undiluted application leaves a visible orange tint on skin. Its unusual fatty acid profile, particularly its high omega-7 (palmitoleic acid) content, makes it genuinely distinctive among plant oils. Here is the complete guide.

Two very different oils from one plant

Berry/pulp oil vs. seed oil

Sea buckthorn produces two distinct oil types with markedly different compositions:

Berry/pulp oil (from the fruit flesh):
Color: Deep orange-red — the most intensely carotenoid-rich plant oil in common skincare use
Omega-7 (palmitoleic acid): 25–45% — exceptionally high; sea buckthorn pulp is one of the richest plant sources of omega-7
Carotenoids: 300–700 mg/100g (beta-carotene, lycopene, zeaxanthin, beta-cryptoxanthin) — orders of magnitude more than most plant oils
Tocopherols: Very high — up to 2500 mg/kg in some analyses

Seed oil (from the seeds):
Color: Orange-yellow but much less intense than pulp oil
Omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid): 25–35%
Omega-6 (linoleic acid): 30–40%
Oleic acid: 15–20%
Lower carotenoid content than pulp oil; different clinical profile

Most skincare applications discuss the berry/pulp oil when citing sea buckthorn's distinctive properties. Seed oil provides omega-3/6 fatty acids similar to other plant oils; the pulp oil's omega-7 + carotenoid combination is unique.

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Omega-7 (palmitoleic acid): the mucosal healing fatty acid

Why palmitoleic acid is significant

Palmitoleic acid (C16:1 omega-7) is found in human sebum (at ~15% of fatty acids) and in particularly high concentrations in mucous membrane tissues. It is:

The predominant fatty acid in skin sebum — topical palmitoleic acid directly replenishes this sebum component
Mucosal healing: Palmitoleic acid supports epithelial cell membrane integrity in mucosal tissues — the oral mucosa, vaginal mucosa, and gastrointestinal lining
Anti-inflammatory: Omega-7 fatty acids reduce pro-inflammatory cytokine production

The vaginal dryness application: Multiple RCTs and clinical studies have shown oral sea buckthorn oil (3g/day) significantly improves vaginal atrophy and dryness in postmenopausal women — the only plant oil with this specific evidence. The mechanism is palmitoleic acid replenishment in vaginal mucosal tissues. This application is now included in some European clinical guidelines for postmenopausal vaginal atrophy management.

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Carotenoid content: antioxidant powerhouse

What the orange color means

Sea buckthorn pulp oil's orange color indicates extraordinary carotenoid density:
Beta-carotene: Provitamin A; antioxidant
Lycopene: Potent singlet oxygen quencher
Zeaxanthin: Xanthophyll antioxidant (also found in the macula; protective against light-induced oxidation)
Beta-cryptoxanthin: Provitamin A carotenoid

These carotenoids provide:
Antioxidant protection against UV-induced ROS (singlet oxygen quenching)
Mild UV absorption (carotenoids absorb visible and UV light)
Skin-conditioning and brightening effects at diluted concentrations

The orange skin warning: Applying undiluted sea buckthorn pulp oil directly to skin temporarily stains it orange (from carotenoid deposition). This is cosmetically problematic. Sea buckthorn must be diluted 1–5% in a carrier oil for face use, or used in formulated products where the carotenoid concentration is controlled.

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Evidence

Eccleston et al. 2002 — atopic dermatitis

Eccleston C, Bauru Y, Soupas L, et al. (2002). Effects of an antioxidant-rich juice (sea buckthorn) on risk factors for coronary heart disease in humans. (related atopic dermatitis literature from Larmo et al.)

*Larmo PS, Järvinen RL, Setälä NL, et al. (2012). Oral sea buckthorn oil attenuates tear film osmolarity and symptoms in individuals with dry eye. Journal of Nutrition, 142(8), 1457–1463* and related Larmo et al. 2008 atopic dermatitis study:

Oral sea buckthorn oil (2g/day) vs. placebo for 4 months in patients with mild atopic dermatitis — significant improvement in skin moisture and barrier function in the sea buckthorn group. The omega-7 and omega-3 fatty acid provision systemically was the proposed mechanism.

Wound healing

Topical sea buckthorn preparations have been used in burn wound management in China, Russia, and Central Asia for decades. Clinical studies from these traditions show faster epithelialization and reduced infection in burns treated with sea buckthorn extract — attributed to the combined antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and palmitoleic acid epithelial-support properties.

Vaginal atrophy: Larmo et al. 2014

*Larmo PS, Yang B, Hyssälä J, Kallio HP, Erkkola R. (2014). Effects of sea buckthorn oil intake on vaginal atrophy in postmenopausal women: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Maturitas, 79(3), 316–321.*

3g/day sea buckthorn oil for 3 months vs. placebo in 116 postmenopausal women:
Significant improvement in vaginal epithelium integrity score vs. placebo
Reduced vaginal pH (indicator of healthier mucosa)
Subjective improvement in vaginal dryness symptoms

This is one of the stronger RCTs for any plant oil in a specific clinical indication.

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How to use sea buckthorn

Diluted in a carrier (1–5%): Add 2–5 drops of sea buckthorn pulp oil to 1 tablespoon of a neutral carrier (jojoba, squalane, or argan) to create a 1–3% dilution. Apply to face — the orange tint is minimal at this dilution. This delivers antioxidant carotenoids and palmitoleic acid without staining.

Formulated products: Sea buckthorn-containing serums and creams control carotenoid concentration to prevent staining while delivering active components. This is the easiest consumer approach.

Oral supplementation (vaginal atrophy / dry eye / eczema): 2–4g/day standardized sea buckthorn oil — taken with a fat-containing meal. The oral route is better evidenced for mucosal outcomes than topical use.

Not for direct undiluted facial application: The carotenoid concentration in pure pulp oil is too high for direct skin application without orange staining.

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