Laser hair removal: what it actually costs, how many sessions you need, and what to watch out for

Laser hair removal is one of the most-requested treatments at med spas, and also one of the most over-sold. Here's what the evidence actually says.

How it works

Laser hair removal uses concentrated light to damage the melanin in a hair follicle. When the follicle is damaged during an active growth phase (anagen), the hair falls out and regrowth is significantly reduced — but not always eliminated permanently, which is why the FDA-cleared term is "permanent hair reduction," not removal.

The most common device types:
Diode lasers (808 nm) — the clinical workhorse; effective across a wide range of skin tones
Nd:YAG lasers (1064 nm) — safer on darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) because melanin absorption is lower; less effective per session on lighter hair
Alexandrite lasers (755 nm) — fast and effective on lighter skin types; avoid on darker skin
IPL (intense pulsed light) — technically not a laser; uses a broad spectrum of light and is less precise; common in budget spas and home devices

How many sessions do you actually need?

Most providers quote 6–8 sessions as a standard course. Reality is more nuanced:

| Body area | Typical session range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bikini / Brazilian | 6–10 | Hormonal regrowth common; touch-ups likely |
| Legs (full) | 6–9 | Large area; session time 45–90 min |
| Underarms | 4–6 | Often the fastest to clear |
| Face (upper lip, chin) | 6–12+ | Hormonal hair is persistent; PCOS can extend considerably |
| Back / chest | 6–8 | Coarse hair responds well |

Sessions are spaced 4–8 weeks apart depending on the body area (tied to the hair growth cycle). Compressing the schedule doesn't improve results — you have to wait for follicles to re-enter anagen.

Cost ranges

Pricing varies by area, device, and clinic. Rough US averages:

| Area | Per session | Full course (6 sessions) |
|---|---|---|
| Upper lip | $75–$150 | $450–$900 |
| Underarms | $100–$200 | $600–$1,200 |
| Bikini line | $150–$250 | $900–$1,500 |
| Brazilian | $200–$350 | $1,200–$2,100 |
| Full legs | $350–$700 | $2,100–$4,200 |
| Back (male) | $250–$500 | $1,500–$3,000 |

Packages typically cost 15–30% less than per-session pricing. Ask what's included if a touch-up is needed after your package ends — some clinics include one free touch-up, others charge full price.

Skin tone and hair color: the honest conversation

Laser hair removal works best on the contrast between dark hair and light skin. It works least well on:
White, gray, or very light blonde hair — not enough melanin in the follicle for any laser to effectively target
Very dark skin tones (Fitzpatrick V–VI) with the wrong device — a clinic using an Alexandrite laser on dark skin risks burns and hyperpigmentation

If you have a darker skin tone, ask specifically what laser the clinic uses and whether the provider has experience with your Fitzpatrick type. Nd:YAG is the standard of care for Fitzpatrick V–VI. A good clinic will show you before/after cases on similar skin tones.

What to do (and not do) before and after

Before:
Shave the area 24–48 hours before your session — do not wax, epilate, or thread (you need the follicle root intact)
Avoid sun exposure and self-tanner for 4 weeks before
Stop retinoids 3–5 days before treatment on facial areas

After:
Avoid sun exposure for 2 weeks; SPF 30+ daily on treated areas
Avoid heat (saunas, hot tubs) for 24–48 hours
Redness and minor swelling are normal for a few hours; persistent blistering or pigment changes should be reported to your provider

Questions to ask before you book

What device do you use, and is it appropriate for my Fitzpatrick type?
Who performs the treatment — a licensed aesthetician, a nurse, or a physician?
Is a test patch included in the first session?
What is the touch-up policy after my package is complete?
What adverse events have you seen, and how did you handle them?

A provider who gives you clear, honest answers is a provider worth booking with.

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