Centella asiatica guide: asiaticoside, madecassoside, and the evidence for wound healing and barrier repair

Centella asiatica — known in skincare as "cica," "gotu kola," or "tiger grass" — is a wetland herb with one of the longest documented wound healing histories of any plant used in medicine. Its K-beauty popularization brought it to mainstream skincare, but the underlying biology is substantive. Here is the complete evidence-based guide.

What centella asiatica is

Botanical background

Centella asiatica (L.) Urban (family Apiaceae) is a creeping herbaceous plant native to tropical Asia and parts of Africa. It has been used in Ayurvedic, traditional Chinese, and African healing traditions for millennia — wound healing, skin conditions, and connective tissue disorders.

The plant's bioactivity is concentrated in four primary triterpenoid compounds (collectively "centelloids"):
Asiaticoside — glycosylated triterpene; the main wound-healing saponin
Madecassoside — glycosylated triterpene; potent anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating
Asiatic acid — aglycone (sugar-free) form of asiaticoside; high bioavailability
Madecassic acid — aglycone form of madecassoside; strong fibroblast activation

Different centella extracts contain different ratios of these compounds — this matters significantly for product quality.

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Mechanisms of action

TGF-β collagen stimulation (the wound healing pathway)

The primary mechanism behind centella's wound-healing efficacy:

Asiaticoside activates TGF-β signaling in dermal fibroblasts — TGF-β (transforming growth factor-beta) is the master regulator of fibroblast activation and collagen synthesis
TGF-β activation → SMAD2/3 phosphorylation → nuclear translocation → upregulation of collagen type I, III, and fibronectin gene expression
Result: Increased procollagen synthesis, faster wound re-epithelialization, and improved collagen cross-linking in healed tissue

Asiaticoside can also stimulate new blood vessel formation (angiogenesis) at wound sites — improving nutrient and oxygen delivery during healing.

Madecassoside's collagen role: Separately from asiaticoside, madecassoside promotes fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis through ERK/MAPK signaling pathways — parallel mechanisms reinforcing the same outcome.

Anti-inflammatory mechanisms

NF-κB inhibition: Asiatic acid and madecassic acid inhibit NF-κB — the central transcription factor controlling pro-inflammatory cytokine production. This reduces IL-1β, TNF-α, and IL-6 in inflammatory conditions.

COX and LOX inhibition: Centella extracts inhibit both cyclooxygenase (COX) and lipoxygenase (LOX) pathways — reducing prostaglandin and leukotriene production (the same dual-pathway inhibition seen in anti-inflammatory botanicals like chamomile and calendula).

TEWL reduction: Madecassoside and asiaticoside support the production of key structural proteins (involucrin, filaggrin) that maintain the stratum corneum barrier — reducing transepidermal water loss in compromised skin.

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Evidence

Bylka et al. 2014 — comprehensive review

*Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. (2014). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 31(1), 46–49.*

Systematic review of centella asiatica in dermatological applications:
Wound healing: asiaticoside and madecassoside stimulate collagen synthesis and accelerate re-epithelialization in multiple clinical studies
Hypertrophic scar and keloid: centella extracts reduce scar hypertrophy by modulating excess collagen cross-linking (the same fibroblast regulation that promotes healing also prevents overproduction)
Venous insufficiency: madecassoside improves microcirculation and reduces leg edema in patients with venous insufficiency — the vascular-strengthening mechanism

Wound healing clinical evidence

Multiple small RCTs and clinical studies support centella in:
Chronic wound healing (venous leg ulcers)
Post-surgical wound recovery (reduced scar formation)
Burn wound healing (faster re-epithelialization)
Radiation dermatitis management

Post-laser and post-procedure: Centella is increasingly used in clinical skincare protocols after ablative laser, microneedling, and chemical peels — the anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating combination is ideal for the post-procedure recovery window.

Anti-aging evidence

A 2015 study (Hashim et al.) showed that topical madecassoside cream over 12 weeks produced significant improvement in fine lines and skin elasticity, with measurable collagen density increase on ultrasound. The collagen-stimulating mechanism of centelloids extends beyond wound repair into anti-aging.

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Why centella is particularly effective for sensitive and barrier-compromised skin

Centella's combination of properties is uniquely suited to irritated, reactive, and compromised skin:

Anti-inflammatory: Reduces existing redness and irritation without further disrupting the barrier (unlike exfoliating actives)
Collagen stimulation: Promotes dermal matrix repair without the retinoid-related side effects
Barrier support: Filaggrin and ceramide production support reduces TEWL
No low-pH requirement: Active at skin-compatible pH — no acid-related irritation
Compatible with every other active: No chemical incompatibilities; no receptor competition

This makes centella appropriate during:
Retinization periods (using alongside a new retinoid to reduce irritation)
Post-procedure recovery (laser, peels, microneedling)
Active rosacea or eczema flares
Compromised barrier from over-exfoliation

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The CICA designation in K-beauty

"Cica" in Korean beauty refers to centella asiatica extract — the name derives from "cicatrice" (French for scar/wound healing). CICA-labeled products are marketed primarily for:
Sensitive, redness-prone skin
Post-acne PIH healing
Barrier repair

The CICA category is marketing-driven, but the underlying centella asiatica ingredient is substantive. The key variable is whether the product uses a high-quality centella extract with meaningful centelloid content.

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Evaluating centella products by extract type

Centella asiatica extract (TECA): The pharmaceutical-grade "titrated extract of Centella asiatica" — standardized to specific concentrations of the four centelloids. This is the extract used in clinical studies and pharmaceutical wound healing products. Look for TECA or standardized centella on the ingredient list.

Centella asiatica leaf extract: Whole-plant extract — contains centelloids but at variable, non-standardized concentrations. Lower quality assurance than TECA; may still be effective.

Hydrocotyl (alternate name): Centella asiatica is also listed as "hydrocotyl" in some ingredient lists — the same plant.

Isolated centelloids: Some premium products list asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, or madecassic acid as specific ingredients — more potent and better characterized than whole-plant extracts.

Concentration on lists: Centella extract often appears mid-to-late on ingredient lists. Unlike some actives, centella is bioactive at relatively low concentrations — position alone is not a reliable indicator of efficacy. Extract quality matters more than mass percentage.

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