Chemical peels explained: light, medium, and deep — what's right for your skin

Chemical peels are one of the oldest aesthetic treatments that still holds up. Here's how to understand the tiers — and how to choose the right one without getting oversold.

What a chemical peel actually does

A chemical peel applies an acid solution to the skin to accelerate exfoliation and stimulate collagen production. How deep the peel penetrates the skin determines both the results and the recovery. The three broad tiers:

| Peel depth | Examples | Targets | Recovery |
|---|---|---|---|
| Superficial | Glycolic (20–35%), lactic, mandelic | Texture, mild discoloration, dullness | Minimal; slight flaking 2–3 days |
| Medium | TCA 20–35%, Jessner's solution | Acne scars, fine lines, uneven pigment | 5–7 days of peeling/crusting |
| Deep | TCA 50%+, phenol | Deep wrinkles, significant scarring | 10–14 days; medical supervision required |

Superficial peels

Light peels are what most aestheticians perform. They remove the outermost layer of the epidermis, leaving skin temporarily smoother and brighter. Results are real but subtle — you typically need a series of 4–6 treatments spaced 2–4 weeks apart to see meaningful change.

Good for:
Dull or uneven texture
Mild acne or clogged pores
Regular maintenance between deeper treatments

What to expect: Tingling or mild stinging during application, slight pinkness for a day, and light flaking over the next 2–3 days. Most people return to work the same day.

Medium peels

Medium peels reach the upper dermis, where collagen remodeling happens. TCA (trichloroacetic acid) at 20–35% is the standard. Jessner's solution is often layered underneath to prime the skin and improve TCA penetration.

Good for:
Moderate acne scarring
Sun damage and lentigines (age spots)
Fine to moderate lines
Melasma (with caveats — see below)

What to expect: More significant "frosting" (the whitening you see during application), followed by 5–7 days of progressive peeling and temporary darkening. You'll look like you have a sunburn for the first 1–2 days, then your skin will visibly peel — plan to avoid social obligations. SPF 30+ is non-negotiable for 6–8 weeks after.

Melasma caveat: TCA can worsen melasma if the wrong concentration is used or sun protection lapses. Always disclose melasma history.

Deep peels

Phenol peels are the most aggressive option and are performed by physicians, typically under mild sedation. Results can be dramatic for deep wrinkles and significant photoaging — but so is the recovery: two weeks of significant redness and crusting, several months until full normalization.

Deep peels are rarely performed as a standalone offering at a standard med spa. If a non-physician clinic is offering "deep" phenol peels, ask hard questions.

Fitzpatrick skin type matters a lot

Chemical peels carry a real risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and hypopigmentation, particularly in skin types Fitzpatrick III–VI. Darker skin types can still benefit from chemical peels — but the acid type, concentration, and timing need to be carefully calibrated.

Mandelic acid (a gentler AHA) and lower-concentration lactic acid peels are generally safer starting points for melanin-rich skin. Jessner's/TCA medium peels are possible but require an experienced provider.

Cost ranges

| Peel type | Average per session | Typical series |
|---|---|---|
| Superficial | $75–$200 | $300–$900 (series of 4–6) |
| Medium (TCA) | $200–$500 | Usually single session or 2–3 |
| Deep (phenol) | $1,000–$3,000 | Single session |

Questions to ask your provider

What specific acid and concentration are you using, and why is it right for my skin?
What is your experience with my Fitzpatrick skin type?
What does recovery look like realistically for this specific peel?
What skincare should I stop before my appointment (retinoids, actives)?
If I have an adverse reaction, what is your follow-up protocol?

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