Microblading guide: what it is, how long it lasts, and what to expect

Microblading is the most popular semi-permanent eyebrow treatment worldwide — a form of cosmetic tattooing that deposits pigment into the superficial dermis using a handheld tool with a row of tiny needles to create individual hair-stroke impressions. Understanding the technique, realistic longevity expectations, skin type compatibility, and aftercare requirements helps set appropriate expectations before booking. Here is the complete guide.

What microblading is (and isn't)

The technique

Microblading uses a manual handheld tool — a pen-like device tipped with a blade consisting of 7–18 fine needles arranged in a flat row — to make small, controlled cuts in the skin while simultaneously depositing pigment. Each stroke creates a thin, curved line that mimics the appearance of a natural brow hair.

The distinction from conventional tattooing:
Depth: Microblading deposits pigment in the superficial dermis (approximately 0.2–0.5 mm depth), significantly shallower than conventional tattoo ink which goes into the mid-dermis. This shallow placement is why microblading fades — the dermis turns over pigment more slowly than the epidermis but still does so over 12–36 months.
Tool: Manual blade vs. rotary or coil tattoo machine. The manual blade creates sharper, more defined strokes than a machine needle but requires more operator skill to maintain consistent depth.
Pigment: Semi-permanent pigments designed to break down over time vs. conventional tattoo inks formulated for permanence.

Microblading vs. powder brows vs. ombre brows

Microblading: Hair-stroke technique; most natural-looking at close range; best for normal-to-dry skin; fades faster on oily skin.

Powder brows (digital shading): Machine-applied stippled pigment creating a soft powder-fill effect — like filled-in brow makeup. More suitable for oily skin (strokes blur on oily skin; solid fill retains shape better). Lasts longer than microblading on most skin types (18–24+ months).

Ombre brows: Gradient effect — lighter at the front of the brow, darker toward the tail. Machine-applied; longer-lasting than microblading; suitable for all skin types.

Combination brows: Microblading hair strokes at the front + powder shading through the body and tail — increasingly popular; combines the natural appearance of strokes with the retention and definition of shading.

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Longevity and fading

Expected timeline

Initial session: Full, saturated brow appearance immediately post-procedure; darkens further in days 2–3 as the skin scabs
Healing phase (days 7–14): Scabbing and flaking; brow appears lighter as the epidermis heals over the pigment (the "ghosting" phase where the brow seems to have disappeared)
Day 28–40: True healed color emerges as the epidermis fully regenerates; lighter and softer than the day-1 appearance
Touch-up session (6–8 weeks): Essential first touch-up to refine shape, fill gaps that didn't retain pigment, and adjust color; considered part of the initial treatment

Longevity: Microblading typically lasts 12–18 months before a color refresh is needed. Some clients go 2+ years; others fade in under 12 months. Individual variation is significant.

Factors that accelerate fading

Oily skin: Sebum is the primary enemy of microblading retention. Excess sebum in the upper dermis breaks down pigment more rapidly and causes individual hair strokes to blur and lose definition over weeks to months. Oily skin types consistently fade faster and retain stroke definition less well than dry skin types — powder or ombre brows are often recommended instead.

Sun exposure: UV degrades pigment molecules and accelerates fading. SPF on the brows (once fully healed) significantly extends longevity.

Retinoid use: Retinoids accelerate skin cell turnover — which also accelerates pigment degradation. Patients using tretinoin or adapalene regularly fade their microblading significantly faster. Retinoid use must be stopped 4 weeks before a microblading session; should be avoided over the brow area to preserve results.

AHA/BHA exfoliants: Same mechanism as retinoids — accelerated turnover. Avoid applying to the brow area.

Skincare actives: Vitamin C, glycolic acid, and other active ingredients that accelerate cell turnover should be kept away from the brow area.

Fitzpatrick skin type: Darker skin types (V–VI) are at higher risk for hyperpigmentation from the microblading trauma and require an experienced artist with appropriate technique adjustments. The pigment also sits in skin with more melanin, which can affect color healed result.

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The healing process and aftercare

Healing timeline

| Phase | Days | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh | 0–2 | Dark, crisp strokes; mild swelling |
| Oxidation | 2–4 | Darkens further; may look "too dark" |
| Scabbing | 4–10 | Scabs form over each stroke; itching normal |
| Flaking | 7–14 | Scabs flake off; brow looks light/patchy |
| Ghosting | 14–28 | Very light appearance as new epidermis covers pigment |
| True healed | 28–40 | Final healed color visible |

Aftercare protocols

Two main schools of aftercare exist:

Dry healing: Keep brows completely dry for 7–10 days — no water contact, no product application. Theoretically reduces softening and migration of fresh pigment.

Wet healing (moist healing): Apply a thin layer of aftercare ointment (often a fragrance-free barrier ointment) 2–3x daily for 7–10 days. Proposed to reduce intense scabbing and maintain more even pigment saturation.

Both methods produce acceptable results when followed correctly. Artist preference varies; follow the specific protocol recommended by your microblading artist.

Universal aftercare rules:
No makeup on brows for 2 weeks
No swimming, saunas, or excessive sweating for 2 weeks
No picking or peeling scabs — this pulls pigment out unevenly
Avoid sun exposure on brows; SPF after healed

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Contraindications

Absolute contraindications:
Active skin infection or inflammation in the brow area
Keloid-forming tendency — microblading trauma can trigger keloids at the brow; obtain physician clearance
Isotretinoin use (current or within 12 months) — skin healing is compromised; risk of scarring and poor retention
Pregnancy or nursing (precautionary; no definitive safety data for pigment compounds in pregnancy)
Blood thinners or anticoagulants — consult physician; increased bleeding affects pigment implantation
Active eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea in the brow area — inflammatory conditions worsen with trauma

Relative contraindications (discuss with artist and physician):
Oily skin — consider powder brows instead
Darker Fitzpatrick types (IV–VI) — require artist with specific darker-skin experience
Previous permanent brow tattoos — microblading over old tattoo ink is complex; artist assessment required

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Choosing an artist

Microblading artist quality varies enormously — this is a largely unregulated field in many states. Key selection criteria:

Portfolio of healed results (not just fresh, day-of photos): Healed results show true retention and stroke quality; fresh results can look better than they heal
State cosmetology or tattoo license — minimum regulatory compliance
Proper bloodborne pathogen training and single-use needle certification — safety non-negotiable
Experience with your skin type and brow type — review portfolio for similar clients

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