Microblading, powder brows, and nano brows: which permanent eyebrow technique is right for you?

Microblading is one of the most-searched permanent makeup procedures — but it's one of three main eyebrow techniques, and it's not the right choice for every skin type or aesthetic preference. Here's a complete guide to all three options.

The permanent eyebrow techniques

Microblading

A manual (non-machine) technique using a small hand tool with a row of micro-needles to deposit pigment in fine, hair-like strokes into the upper dermis. The result mimics individual brow hairs.

Best for:
Normal to dry skin
Patients with sparse brows who want a natural, hair-stroke appearance
Patients with intact (not overly oily or textured) skin

Not ideal for:
Oily skin — sebum expands pigment in the skin, causing strokes to blur and appear powdery over time
Mature or thin skin — the skin doesn't hold crisp strokes as well; healed results can look patchy
Patients with active acne, rosacea, or sensitized skin in the brow area
Patients on Accutane (current or within 12 months)
Patients on blood thinners (affects healing)

Longevity: 12–18 months before a touch-up is typically needed. Some clients go 2 years.

Cost: $400–$800 for initial session, which includes a 6–8 week perfecting touch-up.

---

Powder brows (ombré powder brows)

A machine technique using a PMU (permanent makeup) device to deposit thousands of tiny dots of pigment, creating a soft, filled-in effect — like a powdered eyebrow makeup look. The ombré variant shades lighter at the front of the brow and darker at the tail.

Best for:
Oily skin — the dotted pixelated technique holds far better than hair strokes in oily skin
Clients who want a more defined, makeup-finished look
Mature or thin skin — the technique is less traumatic and heals more consistently
Clients who regularly fill in their brows and want that look permanently
Clients with previous microblading that is fading unevenly

Longevity: 2–3 years, often longer than microblading due to the deeper and more consistent pigment saturation.

Cost: $400–$800. Similar pricing range to microblading; varies by artist.

---

Nano brows (nano needling)

A machine technique (using a single ultra-fine needle) that creates hair-stroke results similar to microblading — but with a machine, which allows for more consistent pressure, thinner needle tips, and better results on some skin types.

Best for:
Clients who want the hair-stroke look of microblading but have oily or slightly problematic skin
Clients with previous microblading looking for a more durable version
Clients with sensitive skin where the manual blade is too traumatic

The advantage over microblading: The finer single needle creates less trauma, heals more crisply, and works on a wider range of skin types than the manual blade.

Longevity: 18 months to 2.5 years — generally longer than traditional microblading.

Cost: $450–$900. Often priced slightly higher than microblading due to the technique precision required.

---

Combination brows

Combines machine hair strokes (nano technique) with powder shading — hair strokes at the front and body of the brow with soft shading added for definition. Popular for clients who want dimension and natural-looking fullness.

Best for: Clients with some existing brow hair who want both definition and natural texture. Works on most skin types.

---

The healing process

Permanent makeup healing is notoriously alarming if you don't know what to expect:

Days 1–3: Brows appear very dark and defined — much darker than the healed result. This is normal. The pigment is sitting at the surface.

Days 4–7: Brows begin to peel and flake. The color lifts significantly — sometimes looking almost gone. Do not pick at peeling skin. This disrupts pigment retention.

Days 7–14: The brows may look very faint, patchy, or "ghost-like." This is the oxidation gap — the pigment is still settling into the dermal layer.

Weeks 4–6: The true healed result becomes visible. Most artists will assess and schedule the perfecting touch-up around 6–8 weeks after initial session.

The 40% rule: Artists typically aim to overfill slightly in the first session, knowing clients will retain roughly 60–80% of strokes. The 6–8 week touch-up corrects any patchiness and fills gaps.

---

The perfecting touch-up

Every initial session should include (or offer at a reduced rate) a 6–8 week perfecting touch-up. This is not optional — it's part of the procedure. At this appointment:
The artist assesses retention and stroke clarity
Adds pigment to areas that healed patchy or light
Adjusts shape based on swelling-free healed result
Some clients with oily skin may need a second touch-up before the shape fully stabilizes

Be skeptical of artists who charge full price for the perfecting touch-up — it's standard practice to include it or charge $50–$150.

---

Annual touch-ups

After the initial session + perfecting touch-up, the brows will gradually fade. Most clients return for a color refresh every:
12–18 months for microblading
18–24 months for powder or nano brows

Annual or biannual refresh appointments are priced at $150–$350 (less than the initial session).

---

Pigment color fading concerns

Healed permanent eyebrow pigment can shift color tone as it fades:
Black or very dark pigments can heal with a cool/ashy or even slightly blue tone
Warm brown pigments can shift orange or red as they fade
A skilled artist uses the right undertone-corrected pigment for your skin tone and existing hair color to minimize color shift over time

Ask your artist: What pigment brand and specific color are you using? What is its primary undertone? How does this color fade in warm/neutral/cool skin tones?

---

Contraindications

Do not book permanent eyebrow procedures if:
Currently on Accutane or within 12 months of finishing
Active cold sore/herpes outbreak in the area (prophylactic antivirals if you have a history)
Pregnant or nursing
Undergoing chemotherapy
Taking blood thinners (Warfarin, high-dose aspirin — discuss with prescriber)
Active eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea in the brow area
Prone to keloid scarring (any PMU can trigger keloidal response in susceptible individuals)

---

Questions to ask before booking

What technique do you recommend for my skin type?
Can I see your healed results portfolio — specifically clients with my skin type?
What pigment brand and color do you use? How does it fade?
Is the 6–8 week touch-up included in the price?
How long is your experience with this specific technique, and how many sessions have you done?

---

Looking for a permanent makeup artist for brows? Browse providers on MedSpot →