Microneedling: what it actually does and whether it's right for you

Microneedling is one of the most consistently misunderstood treatments in aesthetics — sometimes oversold as a cure-all, sometimes dismissed as low-tech. The reality is more specific: it works well for certain concerns, requires realistic expectations, and delivers better outcomes in a clinical setting than at home.

What microneedling does

A microneedling device creates thousands of tiny, controlled punctures in the skin. This triggers the body's wound-healing response — including collagen and elastin production — without the downtime of more aggressive treatments like ablative laser resurfacing.

Conditions that respond well to microneedling:

Acne scarring — particularly ice-pick and boxcar scars; multiple sessions typically needed
Skin texture and enlarged pores
Fine lines and early laxity
Hyperpigmentation (with appropriate post-care)
Stretch marks — slower response, but real improvement is possible

Conditions that don't respond as well:

Active acne — microneedling over active breakouts can spread bacteria; active acne should be managed first
Deep wrinkles — microneedling improves texture and early laxity but won't dramatically reverse significant volume loss or deep creases (that's filler territory)
Melasma — heat or trauma to the skin can worsen melasma; proceed cautiously and only with an experienced provider who knows your skin

At-home devices vs. in-office treatment

Dermarollers and consumer microneedling devices exist and can produce mild benefits for some people. The clinical difference is in needle depth and sterility:

At-home devices typically operate at 0.25–0.5mm depth — shallow enough to improve product absorption but not deep enough to reach the dermis where collagen production happens
In-office devices (Rejuvapen, Morpheus8, SkinPen, others) reach 0.5–3mm, targeting the dermis where collagen remodeling occurs
In-office sterility is non-negotiable; rolling a device across the skin creates micro-openings — infection risk is real if the device or technique isn't sterile

For meaningful collagen induction, in-office treatment at appropriate depth is the clinically backed approach.

What a session looks like

A typical in-office microneedling session:

Topical numbing cream applied 30–45 minutes before the treatment
Skin prep — cleansing and sometimes a growth factor serum applied before needling
Treatment — 20–40 minutes depending on area size; you'll feel pressure and some warmth, not sharp pain
Post-treatment serum — often hyaluronic acid or growth factors applied immediately after to take advantage of enhanced absorption
You'll be red — think moderate sunburn; fades in 24–48 hours for most patients

Sessions and results timeline

Most providers recommend a series of 3–6 sessions spaced 4–6 weeks apart. Results build over time as collagen production continues — you'll see early changes around week 4–6, with more significant improvement appearing 3–6 months after completing the series.

Single sessions do produce results, but the cumulative effect of a series is meaningfully better than a one-off treatment.

Questions to ask at your consultation

"What needle depth do you use for my specific concern?"
"Do you use a medical-grade device, and which one?"
"What do you apply to the skin during and after the treatment?"
"How many sessions would you realistically recommend for my concern?"
"What does the maintenance schedule look like after the initial series?"

A provider who can answer those questions specifically (not just "it depends") has done this before.

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Looking for a provider who offers microneedling near you? Browse skincare specialists on MedSpot and check provider profiles for treatment menus and before/after photos.