Squalane guide: the lightweight emollient that mimics your skin's own sebum

Squalane is a lightweight, odorless emollient oil that closely mimics the lipid composition of human sebum. Unlike most facial oils, it is non-comedogenic and suitable for oily and acne-prone skin — a category where most oils cause problems. Understanding squalane requires distinguishing it from its precursor (squalene) and understanding why the stabilization step changes everything. Here is the complete guide.

Squalene vs. squalane: the critical distinction

Squalene: the natural sebum component

Squalene (with an "e") is a naturally occurring triterpene — a 30-carbon polyunsaturated hydrocarbon — present in human sebum at approximately 10–12% of sebum composition. It is also the major component of olive oil and is found in amaranth, wheat germ, and shark liver oil.

In sebum, squalene serves as:
A natural emollient and lubricant for the skin surface
A lipid peroxidation substrate — when UVA radiation hits sebum squalene, it generates squalene peroxide, a comedogenic compound implicated in acne vulgaris (this is the dark side of squalene in photodamaged skin)

The instability problem: Squalene has six double bonds (six points of unsaturation). It oxidizes rapidly on air exposure, turning rancid. Applied cosmetically, raw squalene would oxidize on skin and produce irritating and potentially comedogenic peroxidation products — the opposite of its intended effect.

Squalane: stabilized by hydrogenation

Squalane (with an "a") is squalene that has undergone complete hydrogenation — all six double bonds are saturated with hydrogen. The result: a fully saturated hydrocarbon with no oxidation-susceptible double bonds.

Properties of squalane:
Chemically inert — does not oxidize or turn rancid
Clear, lightweight, odorless
Stable in formulation and on shelf
Retains the emollient properties of squalene without the instability

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Sources: plant-derived vs. shark-derived

Why shark squalane is no longer used

Historically, squalane was derived by hydrogenating shark liver squalene — sharks accumulate high concentrations of squalene in their livers. This source is now commercially obsolete:

Ethical concerns: shark fishing and bycatch
Sustainability: deep-sea shark populations
Cost and supply: plant sources are more economical at scale

Plant-derived squalane

Modern skincare squalane is derived from plant sources:

Olive-derived squalane: Extracted from olive residue (the high-squalene fraction of olive oil). Chemically identical to shark-derived squalane after hydrogenation. The most common commercial source.

Sugarcane-derived squalane (Biossance brand and others): Derived from fermented sugarcane via biotechnology — sugarcane fermentation produces squalene precursors that are then hydrogenated. Often marketed as more sustainable than olive-derived.

Amaranth-derived: Amaranth seeds have among the highest plant squalene concentrations. Less common commercially but used in some specialty formulations.

All sources produce chemically identical squalane after hydrogenation — the source distinction is ethical/marketing rather than functional for the consumer.

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Why squalane works for oily and acne-prone skin

The sebum mimicry mechanism

Squalane closely resembles the lipid composition of human sebum. The skin's own sebum contains endogenous squalene as a component — squalane is structurally compatible with the skin surface lipid environment.

This compatibility produces an unusual property: squalane absorbs into the skin surface without leaving significant occlusive residue, unlike heavier oils (marula, argan, rosehip) that can sit on the surface and occlude pores.

Non-comedogenic status

Squalane does not plug follicles in controlled testing — its structure does not aggregate in the follicular lumen the way oleic-acid-rich oils (like coconut oil) do. Multiple comedogenicity testing protocols classify squalane as non-comedogenic at concentrations used in skincare.

The practical outcome: Oily-skin patients and acne-prone patients who add most facial oils to their routine break out — the oils occlude already-congested follicles. Squalane is the oil most likely to be tolerated by oily and acne-prone skin.

Important caveat: "Non-comedogenic" is not an absolute guarantee for every individual. Some acne-prone patients are sensitive to any added oil. If acne worsens after adding squalane, discontinue and reassess.

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Emollient properties and evidence

TEWL reduction and barrier support

Squalane functions primarily as an emollient (smoothing the skin surface, improving flexibility) and secondarily as a mild occlusive (reducing TEWL by forming a partial lipid barrier on the skin surface).

Studies measuring TEWL after squalane application demonstrate:
Significant reduction in transepidermal water loss vs. untreated skin
Comparable TEWL reduction to other light facial oils at equivalent application volume
Softer, smoother skin texture within 15–30 minutes of application (acute emollient effect)

Squalane does not provide the strong occlusive TEWL reduction of petrolatum (which reduces TEWL by ~98%). It functions more as a skin-identical emollient than a barrier occlusive — improving skin feel and preventing mild water loss rather than creating a sealed barrier.

Antioxidant properties

Squalene in sebum undergoes lipid peroxidation, generating reactive species. Applied squalane, being fully saturated, does not participate in this peroxidation — it may compete with endogenous squalene for UV-oxidation, potentially reducing the generation of comedogenic squalene peroxide. This mechanism is proposed but not confirmed in clinical studies.

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How to use squalane

Standalone facial oil

Squalane is one of the most popular "one-ingredient" skincare oils — used as a standalone moisturizer alternative or as the last step in a routine before SPF (morning) or sleep (evening).

For oily/acne-prone skin: 2–3 drops applied after serum, before SPF. The lightweight absorption makes it suitable for daytime use.

For dry skin: 3–5 drops as a moisturizer step; can be mixed with a richer cream for additional emolliency.

For post-retinoid application: Squalane applied after tretinoin or retinol significantly reduces the dryness and tightness of retinoid use — the emollient effect complements the moisture-depleting effect of accelerated cell turnover.

As a carrier oil

Squalane is widely used as a carrier oil in formulations because:
It does not compete with active ingredients
It improves spreadability and sensory feel
It is stable and does not shorten formulation shelf life

Many vitamin C serums, niacinamide formulations, and treatment serums use squalane as a base or blend it with aqueous phases.

Ingredient list recognition

Squalane appears as "squalane" on INCI labels. It may appear high or low in the list depending on the formula type — as a standalone oil product it is often the only or primary ingredient; as a formulation component it appears at 1–10%.

Avoid: "Squalene" (the unstabilized form) — rare in modern skincare but occasionally seen in raw oil formulations. Prefer the hydrogenated squalane.

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