Dermaplaning: what it is, who it's for, and whether the results justify the cost

Dermaplaning is one of the most Googled facial treatments — partly because of social media before-and-afters, and partly because of the persistent "does hair grow back thicker?" question. Here's an honest look at the procedure.

What dermaplaning actually is

Dermaplaning uses a sterile surgical scalpel (typically a #10 blade) held at a 45-degree angle to manually exfoliate the surface of the skin. The blade removes:

• The dead outer layer of skin cells (stratum corneum)
• Vellus hair (peach fuzz) — the fine, unpigmented hair that covers most of the face

The procedure is performed by an esthetician or provider using short, feathering strokes against the grain of the hair growth. A full-face session takes 20–45 minutes.

Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?

No. This is one of the most persistent beauty myths. Vellus hair (peach fuzz) follicle structure and hormone receptors are what determine hair texture — cutting the shaft at the surface has no effect on the follicle. The hair that grows back will have a blunt tip (versus the tapered tip of uncut hair), which can briefly appear to look slightly darker or coarser in certain lighting, but the actual texture and thickness is unchanged.

Terminal hair — the darker, coarser hair of the eyebrows, upper lip, or chin that grows in response to androgens — behaves differently and should not be treated with dermaplaning (threading, laser, or waxing are appropriate for these areas).

Who benefits from dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is well-suited for:

• Dry, dull, or uneven-textured skin — the exfoliation is effective at restoring smoothness
• Makeup application — foundation applies noticeably more evenly on freshly dermaplaned skin
• Patients with sensitive skin who can't tolerate acids — dermaplaning is mechanical, not chemical, so it's an option when chemical peels or retinoids are contraindicated (including during pregnancy)
• Enhancing product absorption — removing the dead cell layer improves serum penetration

It is not appropriate for:

• Active acne or inflamed breakouts — the blade can spread bacteria and irritate skin
• Rosacea flares or significant redness
• Keratosis pilaris on the face
• Patients on certain isotretinoin treatments (skin is too fragile)

What results to expect — and what not to expect

What dermaplaning reliably delivers:

• Immediate smoothness that lasts 3–4 weeks (until the skin cell cycle completes)
• A temporary "glow" that lasts a few days
• Easier makeup application for 2–3 weeks

What dermaplaning does NOT do:

• Stimulate collagen production (it doesn't penetrate deep enough)
• Address pigmentation or dark spots (no melanin-targeted effect)
• Reduce acne scarring
• Provide results comparable to a chemical peel or microneedling for texture issues

Dermaplaning is best understood as a maintenance treatment and makeup prep, not a corrective procedure.

Cost

Treatment	Average cost
Standalone dermaplaning	$75–$200
Dermaplaning + chemical peel	$150–$350
Dermaplaning + hydrafacial	$200–$400
Dermaplaning + LED	$125–$250

Many providers offer dermaplaning as a standalone or bundled add-on to other treatments. As a standalone it can feel expensive for results that last 3–4 weeks — the math works better as a monthly maintenance treatment combined with something more corrective.

Dermaplaning vs. alternatives

Treatment	Better at	Dermaplaning advantage
Chemical peel	Pigmentation, acne scars, collagen	Safe during pregnancy; no peeling/downtime
Microdermabrasion	Deeper exfoliation, fine lines	Removes peach fuzz simultaneously
Retinoids	Collagen induction, pigmentation	Immediate effect, no prescription, works during pregnancy
Laser resurfacing	Significant texture and pigment	No downtime; safe on most skin types

What to do before and after

Before:

• Avoid active retinoid use for 3–5 days
• Come with clean, dry skin (no oils or serums)
• Disclose any active breakouts or skin conditions

After:

• Apply SPF 30+ immediately and daily for at least a week
• Avoid active exfoliants (acids, retinoids) for 3–5 days
• Skip heavy makeup for 24 hours if possible
• Do not use at-home dermaplaning tools on the same skin for at least 4 weeks

A note on at-home dermaplaning

At-home dermaplaning razors (the "eyebrow shaper" style tools) are dulled-blade versions of the professional scalpel. They can remove vellus hair and some surface cells, but they don't provide the same depth of exfoliation as a professional treatment. They're also more likely to cause nicks and uneven results when used without training. Fine for maintenance between professional sessions; not a replacement.

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